In September, Lefa Sproxton and five companions shared the pleasure of walking the 116 kilometres from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This is the final stage of the Camino Frances (the French way).
The first pilgrim walked this path at the beginning of the ninthcentury (814) when the tomb of the apostle St. James was discovered in the Iberian Peninsula. In 1135 a medieval guide book, the Codex Calixtinus. described the Camino Frances in detail.
Since that time pilgrims from all parts of the world and for many different reasons have walked the Camino. Our six-day journey began with early rising to European breakfasts of bread, cheese, meat and fruit, sometimes yogurt and certainly strong coffee. The day would see us pass through rural countryside and small villages, many of which were medieval in nature. We walked by corn fields, small farms and through forests of eucalyptus trees. Frequently, blackberries covered the bushes on both sides of the path.
We watched local folk go about their business — the bread man delivering to homes, an elderly woman herding her cattle through the streets, a gardener eager to share his beautiful tomatoes with us. We crossed rivers on medieval bridges and stopped at age-old signposts marking the way and offering protection to the early pilgrims.
The infrastructure that has grown in support of these pilgrims is important to the local economy. Coffee shops, restaurants, accommodation and opportunities to purchase trinkets abound. Mid-day would find us at one of these stops sharing a meal and stories with fellow travellers.
Evenings were spent exploring each new town, doing laundry, eating a hearty pilgrim’s dinner and usually sharing a bottle of wine while we recalled the day’s pleasures.
Everyone was walking to the same destination, the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela, where the relics of St James are housed. The travellers we met were from all parts of the world, walking alone, in pairs, in small groups and in organized tours. Some sang or chanted as they walked, others visited and many walked alone for much of the day. Of course, some talked on their phones.
Nearly everyone sported a scallop shell. The story goes that early in the years of the Camino, pilgrims from afar would enjoy the seafood at Santiago and then carry a scallop shell back with them. The way at that time was very dangerous and the scallop shell offered protection. No one would interfere with someone who had made such a holy journey. Now the shell has become the emblem of the walk. The signposts and directional signs are decorated with it.
Arriving at Santiago, the pilgrim passes through new developments and contemporary shopping areas. But eventually she arrives at the old city. The “old city” of Santiago de Compostela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking the narrow streets between the very old tall buildings feels like stepping back through the centuries. This part of the city is beautifully preserved.
The Cathedral is located here. It is a magnificent building whose sole purpose for existence is the safekeeping of the relics of St. James. Mass is held several times a day and if the pilgrim is fortunate the Botafumeiro performance will be witnessed This is one of the largest thuribles (sensors) in the world, reportedly weighing 80 kilograms and measuring 1.60 metre in height. Forty kilograms of charcoal and incense are placed inside the thurible before it is lit. Eight red-robed men (tiraboleiros) are required to pull the ropes that swing it. At the top of the swing, the Botafumeiro reaches heights of 21 metres. We were fortunate to be present at one of the masses where the Botafumeiro was used. For many pilgrims this is a highlight of their journey.
Although the visit to the cathedral marks the end of the Camino, many pilgrims walk on to the sea. Our group chose a bus tour to Cabo Finisterre, the “end of the world.” It was so named because when the ancients saw the sun drop down behind the sea they believed that was where the world ended, hence finis terre, the end of the world. This coast is also known as the Coast of Death. The wild Atlantic Ocean has been responsible for many sailors’ deaths. It is said tradition demands the pilgrims burn their clothes, discard the worn boots, build a cross in gratitude and watch the sun set. It has also been suggested that this is where the pilgrim takes a bath after the long walk. Our group declined all of these opportunities and simply enjoyed the beautiful location.
It was a wonderful journey including sights, sounds and smells, all new and intriguing. Time was spent alone and with companions. There was time to think and time to visit. It was an adventure to be grateful for.
